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Home - Climbing - Lovers Leap

The Vitals

Locals Tips

General store across the street from Strawberry Lodge is climb-centric (and good beer centric).

Dogs?

Yes, but most routes are multi-pitch so bring supervision.

Links

Lovers Leap on Supertopo, Mountain Project, Lover's Leap Guide Service, Rockclimbing.com, Wikipedia

The Sections


Central Wall 
Lover's Chimney (5.7)
Bookmark (5.8)
Roofer Madness (5.10d)
Chopper Madness (5.11a)
Eagle Buttress Right (5.10a)

Main Wall
R.I.P. (5.11d)
Tombstone Terror (5.10c)
Boothill (5.11a)
Traveler Buttress (5.9)
Silly Willy Crack (5.12c)
Corrugation Corner (5.7)
Blue Cab (5.9)
North Face Pitch 1 (5.9)
Stem Meister (5.10a)
Yankee Dog (5.11c)

West Wall
Arctic Breeze (5.10a)
Nirvana (5.11c)
Hospital Corner (5.10a)
The Gamoke (5.10b)
Anesthesia (5.11c)
Main Line (5.11c)
Magnum Force (5.10b)

Lower Buttress
Beer Can Direct (5.11a)
A Boy and His Arete (5.11a)
Strawbilly Tango (5.12b)
Pillar of Society (5.12a)
Surrealistic Pillar (5.7)
Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
5.10b Variation (5.10b)
For Real Crack (5.8)
Sinbad-Herbert (5.10d)
The Groove (5.8)
The Farce (5.5)
Hemroids in Flight (5.10c)
Voodoo (5.12d)
Black Pyre (5.11a)
Black Opal (5.10c)
Bkack Magic (5.11c)
Blue Wind (5.10a)

Dear John Buttress
Stony End (5.11c)
Drug Crazed (5.11c)
Stone Cold Crazy (5.12c)
Fight the Power (5.12b)
God of Thunder (5.11c)
Tag Team (5.10a)
Hushed Passage (5.10c)
Rehab (5.11a)
Sea Slug (5.11a)
Gods of Plunder (5.8)
Brother of John (5.8)
Skism (5.11c)

The Box
Optischnauzer (5.11a)
Endless Plight (5.11b)
Dog Party (5.12b)
Powerbox (5.12b)
Box Envy (5.11c)
Magic Box (5.11d)

Overview

Lovers Leap offers Lake Tahoe's best area for multi-pitch trad routes. The rock , which is known for it's many horizontal dikes, is considered by climbing legends such as Fred Beckey to be among the best granite in the world. I don't have the experience to make a comparison like that, but I can say it is the most excellent rock I have stepped or stemmed upon. The quality of the granite and the spacing of the dikes allows climbs which elswhere might be graded as a 5.10 get a 5.7 rating here due to the abundance of good feet and incut holds. However the quality and abundance does come with a not-so-silver lining, crowds. High season at the Leap is May-June, and September-October, and you should expect lines on the popular routes even on weekdays. Mid summer gets too hot but you can hit it early or late, and hope for the best. There is too much route information for just one page so we'll break it down into the different sections.
East Wall - There are several classics here. Most notably Bear's Reach (5.7), Haystack (5.8), and The Line (5.9).
Central Wall - Contains a few classics, but is closed for a large portion of the climbing season.
Main Wall - Includes the classic 5.7, Corrugation Corner as well as the only climb in the Tahoe area to make the list of 50 classic climbs of North America (Travelers Buttress).
West Wall - Hospital Corner is the favorite here.
Lower Buttress - Surrealistic Pillar and others
Hogsback - Excellent beginners' routes like Knapsack Crack and Deception

Lovers Leap from Hogsback - click image for medium version. Click here for large

Lovers Leap rock climbing

Lover's Leap Pictures

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Directions - From South Lake Tahoe/Meyers head west over Echo Summit. There are two entrances, the easternmost really only makes sense if you're starting and finishing with the east wall, and you have a high clearance vehicle. Turn south off Hwy 50 in between the two switchbacks heading down towards Horsetail Falls on the dirt road (Slippery Ford Trail) and follow it until you hit a parking lot of sorts just short of the bridge.  Most will want to use the main parking at the campgrounds. Turn off of 50 in the westernmost entrance to the Strawberry Lodge and then follow the road to the left. Turn left after the river and head to the campground. There is a daily fee for parking.

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