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Ballbuster Rock

The Vitals Very short approach. Easy to top rope. Small, short rock. No views at all. Everything is named * the Crack Locals Tips Mix this with another climb at Spooner Crag or the North Shore Dogs? Yes, keep an eye on them though this one's close to Hwy 28. Links Ball buster Rock on Mountain Project. The Routes (from L to R) South Face Approach (5.6) The Mantle (5.10c) Face (5.11a) The Crack (5.9) The Chimney (5.6) The Arete (5.10a) Easy Corner (5.8) Deep Blue  (5.10c) Left Crack (5.9) Left Crack Variation (5.9) Left Variation (of the right crack) (5.10b) Right Crack (5.9) Arch Nemesis (5.11b) Cruz (5.9)

Ballbuster is a 30'-40' rock on tahoe's east shore (but not on the shore, or even in view of the lake). It's a small area but has a decent number of climbs and a good variety of difficulties for it's size. The granite is not of especially good quality and is pretty darn slick at the bottom. The rock rarely approaches vertical but there are some slick slab/friction climbs good for learning the practice. Everything can be toproped easily and/or protected with gear to 4". There are no sport routes. There are some decent climbs for kids here, although probably not best for their first time out. Can't beat the one minute approach though.

Ballbuster Rock Pictures

Directions - The rock is located on Highway 28 about 3 miles north of the Spooner junction with Hwy 50. The rock is on the west side of the road in view and there is a long pullout on the east side of the road.