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Home - Climbing - Phantom Spires

The Vitals

Locals Tips

Alternative to konga line on the Leap..

Dogs?

Yes

Links

Phantom Spires on Mountain Project, Rockclimbing.comSummit Post.org.

The Routes

Upper Spire
Desperado Roof (5.10b)
East Face Route (5.9)
Steppin' Stone (5.11a)
Burnt Offerings (5.10d)
Holy Smoke (5.11c)
Unknown (5.11a)
Necklace Traverse (5.10d)
Fear of Flying (5.9)
Gingerbread (5.7)
Juggs Revisited (5.9)
Lesbian Love (5.11c)
T-Bone (5.10d)
Robert's Crack (5.10d)
Golden Brown (5.11d)
Char Broiled (5.10d)
Well Done (5.11d)
Crispy Critters (5.10a)
Harrison Direct (5.11b)
Cabin Fever (5.11b)
Sizzler (5.11b)
Up for Grabs (5.8)
North Ridge (5.6)

Middle Spire
Slowdancer (5.9)
Hard Up (5.9)
Over Easy (5.7)
The Prow (5.10b)
Cockabooty (5.7)
Chainsaw Willie (5.8)
Tyro's Test Piece (5.5)
Rain Song (5.7)
Regular Route (5.8)
Anal Sex (5.9)
Candyland (5.10c)
Candy Ass (5.10d)
Harding's Other Chimney (5.7)
Unnamed (5.6)
Fancy Dancin' (510b)
Corn Flakes (5.9)
Lean and Mean (5.9)
Leaner and Meaner (5.11b)
Penny Candy (5.10a)
Clam Rock Unnamed Right Route (5.12)
Clam Rock Unnamed Center Route (5.10d)
Clam Rock Unnamed Left Route (5.12)
Sharks Tooth 3-Bolt Arete (5.10a)
Sharks Tooth 3-Bolt Arete (5.8)

Lower Spire
K.E. Cracks (5.11c)
Driving Ms Dahl (5.12a)
Five Tendons (5.10d)
The Siren (5.11d)
Last Lock Up (5.10c)
Jack Corner (5.9)
Fire Fly (5.6)

Lizard Head
Lounge Lizard (5.10c)
South Face (A3)
Dewlap (5.11d)
North Face (5.11c)

Twin Owls
Unnamed (5.11)
Unnamed (5.8)
Unnamed Top Rope (5.8)

The Blocks
The Bowling Ball (5.10b)
Blue Note (5.10b)
French Letter (5.11a)
My Favorite Thing (5.10d)

Gorilla Rock
Ko Ko Box (5.8)
Ant Crack Left (5.8)
Ant Crack Right (5.8)

True Grit
Wombat (5.11a)
True Grit (5.10a)

Phantom Wall
Unnamed (5.12)
Oedipus Rex (5.7)
Electra (5.11c)
Dr. Jeckyll and Mr. Hyde (5.11b)
Eraser Head (5.11b)

Uncle Max
Aunt Clara (5.11c)
The Clown (5.8)
Mean Mo (5.10c)

Lost John
Unknown (5.12a)
Scrubby's Crossing (5.12c)
Whole Slot of Trouble (5.11d)
Turning Point (5.10b)
Unnamed (5.8)

Phantom Spires

Phantom Spires features a huge variety of climbs from 5.easy to 5.hard with fun moderates in between. It seems some of the grading on the easier climbs may be off (5.5 Tyro's Test Piece generally gets a tougher grade from most climbers for example) while ratings for the moderates and tougher climbs seems to be spot on. There are about 12-14 different areas or rocks to choose from depending on how you split them up (some consider Clam Rock and Shark's Tooth as different areas but they are right next to Middle Spire and have only a few short routes).  While some rock is your basic Tahoe granite, many routes and walls feature huge jugs popping out like acne. These are the routes that make Phantom Spires unique. These are especially pronounced in the area around the Middle Spire. The area also feature a good variety of sport climbs, trad climbs and top rope options. Be sure to bring some slings to hitch the knobs.

Phantom Spires Pictures

Phantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbing
Phantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbing
Phantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbingPhantom Spires rock climbing
Phantom Spires rock climbing

Directions - Coming from South Lake Tahoe head west on Hwy 50. 4 miles east of Strawberry you will turn right onto Wrights Lake Road. 2.3 miles up Wright's Lake Road there will be a dirt road heading off towards the spires. Take it. High clearance helps, but isn't required. If you're coming from the west, Wright's Lake Road is approximately 5 miles past Kyburz on the left.


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