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The Vitals
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Fun
rock. Unique Climbs. Long season
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Trails are bushwhacky
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Locals Tips
Alternative to konga line on the Leap..
Dogs?
Yes
Links
Phantom Spires on Mountain
Project, Rockclimbing.com, Summit Post.org.
The Routes
Upper
Spire
Desperado Roof (5.10b)
East Face Route (5.9)
Steppin' Stone (5.11a)
Burnt Offerings (5.10d)
Holy Smoke (5.11c)
Unknown (5.11a)
Necklace Traverse (5.10d)
Fear of Flying (5.9)
Gingerbread (5.7)
Juggs Revisited (5.9)
Lesbian Love (5.11c)
T-Bone (5.10d)
Robert's Crack (5.10d)
Golden Brown (5.11d)
Char Broiled (5.10d)
Well Done (5.11d)
Crispy Critters (5.10a)
Harrison Direct (5.11b)
Cabin Fever (5.11b)
Sizzler (5.11b)
Up for Grabs (5.8)
North Ridge (5.6)
Middle
Spire
Slowdancer (5.9)
Hard Up (5.9)
Over Easy (5.7)
The Prow (5.10b)
Cockabooty (5.7)
Chainsaw Willie (5.8)
Tyro's Test Piece (5.5)
Rain Song (5.7)
Regular Route (5.8)
Anal Sex (5.9)
Candyland (5.10c)
Candy Ass (5.10d)
Harding's Other Chimney (5.7)
Unnamed (5.6)
Fancy Dancin' (510b)
Corn Flakes (5.9)
Lean and Mean (5.9)
Leaner and Meaner (5.11b)
Penny Candy (5.10a)
Clam Rock Unnamed Right Route (5.12)
Clam Rock Unnamed Center Route (5.10d)
Clam Rock Unnamed Left Route (5.12)
Sharks Tooth 3-Bolt Arete (5.10a)
Sharks Tooth 3-Bolt Arete (5.8)
Lower
Spire
K.E. Cracks (5.11c)
Driving Ms Dahl (5.12a)
Five Tendons (5.10d)
The Siren (5.11d)
Last Lock Up (5.10c)
Jack Corner (5.9)
Fire Fly (5.6)
Lizard
Head
Lounge Lizard (5.10c)
South Face (A3)
Dewlap (5.11d)
North Face (5.11c)
Twin
Owls
Unnamed (5.11)
Unnamed (5.8)
Unnamed Top Rope (5.8)
The
Blocks
The Bowling Ball (5.10b)
Blue Note (5.10b)
French Letter (5.11a)
My Favorite Thing (5.10d)
Gorilla
Rock
Ko Ko Box (5.8)
Ant Crack Left (5.8)
Ant Crack Right (5.8)
True
Grit
Wombat (5.11a)
True Grit (5.10a)
Phantom
Wall
Unnamed (5.12)
Oedipus Rex (5.7)
Electra (5.11c)
Dr. Jeckyll and Mr. Hyde (5.11b)
Eraser Head (5.11b)
Uncle
Max
Aunt Clara (5.11c)
The Clown (5.8)
Mean Mo (5.10c)
Lost
John
Unknown (5.12a)
Scrubby's Crossing (5.12c)
Whole Slot of Trouble (5.11d)
Turning Point (5.10b)
Unnamed (5.8)
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Phantom Spires
Phantom Spires features a huge
variety of climbs from 5.easy to 5.hard with fun moderates in between.
It seems some of the grading on the easier climbs may be off (5.5
Tyro's Test Piece generally gets a tougher grade from most climbers for
example) while ratings for the moderates and tougher climbs seems to be
spot on. There are about 12-14 different areas or rocks to choose from
depending on how you split them up (some consider Clam Rock and Shark's
Tooth as different areas but they are right next to Middle Spire and
have only a few short routes). While some rock is your basic
Tahoe granite, many routes and walls feature huge jugs popping out like
acne. These are the routes that make Phantom Spires unique. These are
especially pronounced in the area around the Middle Spire. The area
also feature a good variety of sport climbs, trad climbs and top rope
options. Be sure to bring some slings to hitch the knobs.
Phantom Spires Pictures
   
   
   
Directions
- Coming from South Lake Tahoe head west on Hwy 50. 4 miles east of
Strawberry you will turn right onto Wrights Lake Road. 2.3 miles up
Wright's Lake Road there will be a dirt road heading off towards the
spires. Take it. High clearance helps, but isn't required. If you're
coming from the west, Wright's Lake Road is approximately 5 miles past
Kyburz on the left.
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