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The Vitals
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Yosemite
style granite close to Tahoe. Great winter climbing.
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Steep approach. Can be hot in summer. Flies.
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Locals Tips
Strawberry Lodge for beers after.
Dogs?
Yes
Links
Sugarloaf on Supertopo, Mountain
Project, Rockclimbing.com,
theCrag.com
The Routes
East
Face
The Fang (5.9)
Bird Man (5.11d)
Talkig Heads (5.11b)
Stone (5.10a R)
South Summit Bolt Ladder (5.10a)
Harding's Chimney (5.8)
Gallows Pole (5.11b/12a direct)
Beast of Burden (5.2a)
Scheister (5.7)
Blue Velvet (5.10c)
Crushed Velvet (5.10c)
Farley (5.9)
Opus 7 (5.11d)
Grand Illusion (5.13b)
Mini-Illusion (5.12b)
Taurus (5.11b)
Lady Luck (5.10a R)
The Fracture (5.10d)
Telesis (5.11b)
Dominion (5.10a)
Captain Fingers (5.12c)
East Chimney (5.7)
Morticia (5.9)
Lurch (5.8)
Swallow Tail (5.9)
Monkey Flower (5.10c
)
West
Face
Northern Lights (5.12a)
Happy Face (5.10c)
Hyperspace (5.10b
)
Twist and Shout (5.10a R)
The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11b)
Only the Young Die Brave (5.11c
)
Under the Spreading Atrophy (5.11b)
Pony Express (5.9)
Cry Uncle (5.12a R)
Expresso (5.11a)
West Chimney (5.8)
TM's Deviation (5.9+)
Grand Delusion (5.12d)
Fat Merchant Crack 5.10b X
Sugar Daddy (5.11c)
Ghost in the Machine (5.12a)
Ziplock (5.11d)
South
Face
Harder than it Used to Be (5.12a)
Bolee Gold (5.10c)
Hooker's Haven (5.12a)
Sugarbun
Fingerlock (5.10a/b)
Make That Move Now Baby (5.10d)
Sound of Perserverance (5.11)
East Corner (5.9)
Rug Doctor (5.9)
Fly Trap (5.7R)
Mad Dog (5.10d)
Dog Fight (5.11c)
Dirty Dog (5.10c)
Wintergreen (5.10c)
Midway
Rock
Urchins Ate the Coral (5.10d)
Turning Point (5.10b)
Gooney Dunes (5.9+)
Flight Deck (5.11c)
Self Abuse (5.10b)
Diagonal Left (5.9)
Diagonal Right (5.9)
Dental
Wall
Cracked Tooth (5.8)
Gumline (5.9)
Cuspid (5.6)
Plumbline (5.10d)
Toothpick (5.10d)
Gingivitis (5.10d)
West
Buttress
Short Toe (5.10b)
Middle Toe (5.9
)
Long Toe (5.8)
Sacroiliac Joint (5.7)
Left Cheek (5.8)
Pickin' It (5.9)
Knobelty (5.10a)
Scratchin' It (5.9)
Cryptogamic (5.7)
Sciatica (5.10d)
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Sugarloaf
If you're looking for
something to prepare yourself for a trip to the Valley, or just looking
to get on some Yosemite style climbs without heading to the Valley,
then Sugarloaf is the place to go. The granite is smoother than most of
Tahoe, without the knobs and dikes that characterize other areas on Hwy
50. The routes seem to be graded more along the lines of those in
Yosemite as well. There are actually several small walls in the
vicinity and on the trail up that offer single pitch sport and top rope
routes. While there are over 30 routes on these walls, the main
attraction is the 350' tall granite buttress that
Suagrloaf is named after. The routes here are mostly multi-pitch trad,
but there are some sport routes and many of the multi pitch lines have
chains after the first pitch so you can lower off or top rope.
Sugarloaf is broken up into the East Face, the West Face, the South Face
Sugarloaf Pictures
          
Directions
- Sugarloaf sits above Hwy 50 in Kyburz. Park on the south side of the
road across from the phone company building as seen in the first
picture (DO NOT park in their lot!). Hike up behind the
building and keep hiking up. You will pass several of the smaller walls
on the trail up.
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