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Home - Climbing - Lover's Leap - East Wall

The Vitals

Locals Tips

East parking area makes the approach and descent easier.

Dogs?

Yes but many of the climbs are multi-pitch.

Links

Mountain Project -  Supertopo -  RockClimbing.com -

The Routes (L to R)

Pop Bottle (5.7)
Far East  (5.9-)
East Corner Arete (5.10b)
East Corner (5.11b)
Haystack (5.8)
Preparation H (5.8)
Fear No Evil (5.9R)
Fantasia (5.9R)
Scimitar (5.9)
East Crack (5.8)
Bear's Reach (5.7)
Pigs on the Wing (5.10c)
East Wall (5.6)
End of the Line (5.10c)
The Line (5.9)
Labour of Love (5.10a)
Showtime (5.10+)
A Few Dollars More
Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
Unnamed (5.10a)
Fandango (5.9)


East Wall

Located far looker's left at the Leap, the East Wall is littered with excellent face and/or crack climbs with the traditional Lover's Leap horizontal dikes thrown in. There are several well known classics here like Haystack,. Bear's Reach, and the Line, but there are also some outstanding lesser known climbs as well. This is good news since often times the popular routes will have lineups. The climbs range from 5.6 to 5.11 but most sit right in the middle of those grades. The wall faces NW so it can get hot on summer afternoons and can be cold on spring and fall mornings. A portion of the East Wall's right side is closed throughout the spring and summer for a peregrine falcon nesting site. Those routes are not listed here.

East Wall Pictures

Lover's Leap climbing Lover's Leap climbing Lover's Leap climbing Black Diamond Camalot C4 Package #.3-6

Directions - As you leave the parking area you turn left onto the main trail (Pony Express Trail). Follow it for about 10 minutes. The climbs will all be up and to your right. The main trail to the base of the climbs is about even with Haystack. You can also access it much quicker from the parking on the east end, which requires 4wd.

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