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The Vitals
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Easy
approach, beautiful setting, mostly easy climbs on excellent granite.
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Rattlesnakes live here. Longish descent/walk
off.
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Locals Tips
East parking area makes the approach
and descent easier.
Dogs?
Yes but many of the climbs are
multi-pitch.
Links
Mountain Project - Supertopo - RockClimbing.com -
The Routes (L to R)
Pop Bottle (5.7)
Far East (5.9-)
East Corner Arete (5.10b)
East Corner (5.11b)
Haystack (5.8)
Preparation H (5.8)
Fear No Evil (5.9R)
Fantasia (5.9R)
Scimitar (5.9)
East Crack (5.8)
Bear's Reach (5.7)
Pigs on the Wing (5.10c)
East Wall (5.6)
End of the Line (5.10c)
The Line (5.9)
Labour of Love (5.10a)
Showtime (5.10+)
A Few Dollars More
Psychedelic Tree (5.9)
Unnamed (5.10a)
Fandango (5.9)
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East Wall
Located far looker's left at
the Leap, the East Wall is littered with excellent face and/or crack
climbs with the traditional Lover's Leap horizontal dikes thrown in.
There are several well known classics here like Haystack,. Bear's
Reach, and the Line, but there are also some outstanding lesser known
climbs as well. This is good news since often times the popular routes
will have lineups. The climbs range from 5.6 to 5.11 but most sit right
in the middle of those grades. The wall faces NW so it can get hot on
summer afternoons and can be cold on spring and fall mornings. A
portion of the East Wall's right side is closed throughout the spring
and summer for a peregrine falcon nesting site. Those routes are not
listed here.
East Wall Pictures
  
 
Directions
- As you leave the parking area you turn left onto the main trail (Pony
Express Trail). Follow it for about 10 minutes. The climbs will all be
up and to your right. The main trail to the base of the climbs is about
even with Haystack. You can also access it much quicker from the
parking on the east end, which requires 4wd.
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